Description

The word portmanteau derives from a combination of two French words: port – carry and manteau – cloak, describing its function.

In the eighteenth century, portmanteaus were cylindrical oblongs with a flap that buckled over the opening, mostly made of leather.  Old English Dictionary defines portmanteau as a case or bag for carrying clothing and other belongings when travelling, suitable for carrying on horseback.

 

The Sportsman Dictionary or, The Gentleman's Companion for Town and Country of 1792 includes a definition of a "portmanteau- saddle; that has a cantle behind the seat to keep the portmanteau or other parcel off from the back of the rider."

 

Portmanteaus could also have a shoulder strap, which would enable their carrying over the shoulder. A portmanteau was essentially an eighteenth-century version of a modern carry-on luggage. It enabled the traveller to keep the most essential items with them while travelling through the country. The information on the making of a portmanteau is impossible to find, but, as the early ones were made of leather, it could be reasonably assumed it would have been associated with the saddlery trade.

 

A  1726 dictionary defines a portmanteau as "a Mail or a Cloak Bag", whereas one printed in 1797 has a definition of "a bag or chest in which clothes are carried". This change in description from the early part of the century to nearly the end of the period shows the development of the item from a simple bag with limited capacity, to one of potentially larger size and a much more specific use. A portmanteau became a travel necessity. As the life changed, the portmanteau gradually became more rigid, in the form of a chest, until it became a suitcase and then it again evolved into the current modern hand luggage or a soft weekend bag.

                           

                                                                   Fig.1 A Leather Portmanteau

 

Sometimes also referred to as port-manteau, portmantua or portmatle., with other listed less common forms of the word:

portmanteawe, portmanteo, portmantieu,  portmantuo,  portmantew, portemantue, portmanto, portmantoe, portmantu, portmantue;  portemanteow, portemantew, portmanteaw, portmantiou,  portmantile, portmantel, portmantell, portmantillo, poortmankle, portmanque, portmante, portmantick, portmanty; portmanteam, portmanten, portmantium, portmantuan

And in Irish English: portmantiey, portmanty.

 

The frequency of the word appearing in texts increases towards the end of the century. This could indicate an increase in a more common-place appearance of the article in the eighteenth-century life.

 

                         Fig.2 Graph representing the frequency of the word “portmanteau” in printed texts,  www.historicaltexts.jisc.ac.uk

 

The increased frequency of appearance in the texts is less significant for 3 other main forms of the word: portmantua, portmantle and port-manteau, as shown in the graph below. At the start of the century two of the forms appear in historical texts. This changes as the century progresses and the portmanteau dominates as the most frequently used form. This could perhaps be linked with the increase in travel narrative, the circulation of newspapers, and possibly, the century's rise in literacy.

 

                                                       Fig.3 Graph representing the frequency in printed texts of the 4 main forms of the word  portmanteau. Gale Primary sources

                                                       http://0-gdc.galegroup.com.pugwash.lib.warwick.ac.uk/gdc/artemis/nGramViewer?p=GDCS&u=warwick#/1695/1805/DVI-Newspapers_ct/off//portmanteau/portmantua/portmantle/port-manteau

 

Travel 

Eric Pawson in his book Transport and Economy: The Turnpike Roads of Eighteenth Century Britain explains that the eighteenth century brought with it a rapid development of the land transport system and with it travel, both commercial and for pleasure.  After the Post Office Act of 1660 confirming the operation of the Postal Service as a public service, the land transport grew rapidly. In 1637 only 4 towns were served by stage coaches while the record of 1715 lists 215 towns.  "In the eighteenth century, both intra- and interurban traffic services expanded.” (Pawson, 33) The provision of coach services made travelling more accessible to those not in possession of own Carriages,  or wealthy enough to hire own transport. The poor were given a limited space on the stage coaches, and the use of portmanteau increased. It was no longer reserved for a gentleman on horseback, but its use spread to the poor. The wealthy gentleman would carry his portmanteau on horseback, or have his servant carry it for him. The poor would carry the bag over the shoulder.

 

 

                          

                                                                                                Fig 4. A Dinner Conversation by Marcellus Laroon the Younger c 1735-1740, Image from Wikipedia Commons

 

     

                                                                                              Fig. 5 School Boys Giving Charity to a Blind Man, William Redmore Bigg 1784

 

The two images above depict the polar opposites of the eighteenth-century society with the same item. In Fig 4, a young aristocratic gentleman is dining with his female companion after a long journey signified by the bulky portmanteau at his feet. In Fig 5 a blind man beginning at the side of a road with his much smaller portmanteau next to him if offered charity by young wealthy boys. Both images imply the mobility of the eighteenth-century society. As the road system grew and improved, the movement between places became easier and more accessible to all social spheres. The portmanteau became a travel accessory for all.

 

An auction catalogue of 1780 included belo lists a portmanteau among the items in the Servants' Hall listing it as a job lot 10 together with "an iron fender, trivet, 5 pot hooks, tool box & portmanteau" for a total sum of 6 shillings, equivalent of £25.83 in todays terms, according to the National Archives Currency Converter tool. The same tool stipulates that 6 shillings would buy 2 days work of a craftsman in a building trade.

 

                                                  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

Fig. 6 and 7 An Auction Catalogue

                                                                                                   

The ownership of a second-hand portmanteau would certainly be accessible to the lower classes. In fact, Pamela refers to her portmanteau when she arrives at Mr B's country house, which could imply that she owned one herself.

 

One thing I should mention in this Place; he brought down, in a Portmanteau, all the Cloaths and Things my Lady and Master had presented me, and moreover two Velvet Hoods, and a Velvet Scarf, that used to be worn by my Lady; but I have no Comfort in them!

Mrs Jewkes had the Portmanteau brought into my Closet, and she shew’d me what was in it; but the locked it up, and said, she would let me have what I would out of it, when I asked; but if I had the Key, it might see me wanting to go abroad, may-be; and so the insolent Woman put it in her Pocket. (Richardson, 120)

 

 

Travel narrative - A Sentimental Journey

Travelling, when not for business, had once been holy, as religious pilgrimage, or therapeutic, for exercise or recover broken health. Now people were increasingly going on jaunts in their own right, partly because better road, inns and coaches made it more pleasurable. Bath – labelled by Defoe ‘the resort of the sound rather than the sick’ – became the cynosure of elegance … Abroad, grand tourists flocked to France and Italy, those magnificent museums of history, culture and civility. At home the Peak fed the new love of natural sublimity, until it was rivalled by the Lake District and the Welsh Mountains. Like other Georgian delights, travelling was becoming the joy of a broader cross-section. (Porter, 227-229)

 

As travel became easier and more popular, the new literary genre of travel narrative grew with it. Travel narrative became one of the most popular  literary genres during the eighteenth century, which included descriptive accounts of the foreign geography, monuments, and customs.  The number of books published about foreign travel outsold all other published works in England, with the exception of the novel. The improvements in roads, carriages, and ships allowed a far greater number of ordinary citizens, not just explorers and soldiers,  the opportunity to travel and record their experiences.  The portmanteau, perhaps unsurprisingly, features heavily in those texts, mostly as a cursory mention. Some accounts mention interesting uses for the item. James Boswell in his Journal of the Tour to the Hebrides with Samuel Johnson finds and alternative use for the portmanteau; it served as a pillow when no lodgings could be secured.

 

We were accommodated this night in a large barn, the island affording no lodging that we should have liked so well. Some good hay was strewed at one end of it, to form a bed for us, upon which we lay with our clothes on; and we were furnished with blankets from the village. Each of us had a portmanteau for a pillow. When I awaked in the morning and looked round me, I could not help smiling at the idea of the Chief of the McLeans, the great English Moralist, and myself, lying thus extended in such a situation. (419)

 

The portability of a portmanteau also allowed for a quick change of clothing to suit the situation in which a traveller found him or herself. A French geologist describes his companion on the trip to the Scottish islands using the portmanteau for a quick and convenient change of attire.

 

I ought not to forget to mention that Mr McDonald, who accompanied me from Oban with the intention of visiting the isle of Staffa, had no sooner reached Aros than he changed his dress. He had travelled before in English regimentals, but upon arriving here he opened his portmanteau, and to my great surprise, in about half an hour after, appeared in the complete vesture of the inhabitants of the isles; plaid jacket, kilt, feathered bonnet, buskin-hose, durk, no part of it was omitted. I was scarcely able to know him again in this dress. He told me, that it was the garb of his fathers, that he never appeared in any other when in these island, and that the wearing of it was a mark of attachment to his fellow countrymen, with which they were much pleased. (Barthélemy, 12-13)

 

There was no need to have heavy trunks unloaded from the coach or carriage. A portmanteau afforded the convenience of a quick access to the personal and essential belongings.

 

Taking waters in Spa towns and travelling within the borders of Britain soon extended to travelling abroad. Young men of high birth were travelling to Europe, mainly Italy, to finish off their classical education. This phenomenon known as the Grand Tour, resulted in a number of travellers’ recollections of their experiences abroad. A portmanteau again allowed an easy transfer from place to place with the most important possessions without having to wait for the rest of the luggage to arrive.  Thomas Nugent in the Grand Tour… offers some useful advice on the best ways to travel with a Portmanteau in Italy.

 

... the best way therefore of travelling in this country is with the cambiatura. ... The great convenience of this way of travelling  is, that you may stop where you please, and change your horses or calash at every cambiatura, without being obliged to pay for their return, and besides you may take what time you please to satisfy your curiosity. There is room for two people in a calash, which is a much better way of travelling than on horseback, because a person has the advantage of being screened from the sun and weather, and he is allowed to carry a portmanteau fastened to it of 200 weight. But 'tis proper to look from time to time to the portmanteau, or to make a servant follow the calash on horseback, in order to take care of the baggage; though this trouble may in great measure be prevented by fastening the portmanteau to the calash with an iron chain and padlock, as is frequently done behind post-chaises in Germany, The tying and untying of the portmanteaus at every cambiatura, is a necessary piece of travel that attends this way of travelling; wherefore those who have a long journey to make. and intends not to stop on the road, or only to make a short stay, ought to always agree with one vetturino for the whole passage. But the best way is to have a calash of your own, for then you may travel more at ease without having the perpetual trouble of removing your portmanteaus. (40-41)

 

The convenience of the accessibility and light weight of the portmanteau, had some drawbacks. It made it easier to steal from preoccupied tourists. A servant was required to travel behind a carriage to ensure the security of the luggage. Solo travellers, were advised to secure their portmanteau to the coach.

 

Other travel accounts offered advice on an appropriate tip to be offered to customs officials to preserve their luggage from too much ruffling, as included in The Travellers Companion and Guide Through France, Flanders, Brabant and Holland.

 

From the Place you may go to your Inn, when, after refreshing yourself awhile, you had best go yourself to the Custom-House, where you will find your Baggage has been carried from the Vessel, and will there be searched, and if it contains only Cloaths and Neccessaries, you will have it delivered to  Aporter who will carry it to your Inn. It will be prudent to give to the Peron at the Custom-House the Value of and English Shilling if you have but one Trunk or Portmanteau, and if more half a Crown, and he will not tumble your Cloaths, nor give you any trouble.(13)

 

 

                                                                                                                  Fig. 8 The title page of Sterne's A Sentimental Journey

 

The most popular of the travel narratives is Laurence Sterne’s A Sentimental Journey through France and Italy. The popularity of the novel helped establish travel writing as a literary genre. The novel, based on Sterne’s own travels in Europe moved away from the previous travel accounts focussed on matter-of-fact observations. Instead, A Sentimental Journey offered personal and subjective perceptions of the visited countries. The collection of stories is told through the character of the Reverend Mr Yorick describing his travel adventures. One of the stories recounted by Mr Yorick is the account of the difficulties he experienced with his portmanteau while travelling through France. Rather than simply describing the misfortunes of dealing with the portmanteau, Mr Yorick reflects upon the need of a servant, and goes on to hire one to help him on his journey.

 

"I had once lost my portmanteau from behind my chaise, and twice got out in the rain, and one of the times up to the knees in dirt, to help the postilion to tie it on, without being able to find out what was wanting - Nor was it till I got to Montriul, upon the landlord's asking me if I wanted a servant, that it occurred to me, that was the very thing. A servant! That I do most sadly, quoth I." (41)

"The next morning La Fleur entering upon his employment, I delivered to him the key of my portmanteau with and inventory of my half dozen shirts and silk pair of breeches; and bid him fasten all upon the chaise - get the horses put-to - and desire he landlord to come in with his bill." (46)

 

Unlike the pragmatic travel narratives, instead of simply offering practical advice on travelling with luggage, Sterne uses the portmanteau to characterise Mr Yorick, and to bring another character into the story, the servant, monsieur La Fleur. Mr Yorick was happy enough to be a hands-on tourist, in contrast perhaps to the upper class travellers through Europe, whose accounts would be available for the contemporary reader. The encountered troubles with his luggage have persuaded him to hire a servant to accompany him on his journey.  A portmanteau, in this case, is as much a tool to transport personal belongings,  as a stylistic device to aid the narrating of the story.

 

Theft and Highwaymen

The portability of a portmanteau was as much a problem for a foreign tourist, as the traveller within the country. The eighteenth century saw the rise of the cities. As the population grew, the migration from the rural to the urban increased, bringing with it poverty and crime. The convenience of the portability of the portmanteau became a curse, as it presented an opportunity for easy theft from the backs of carriages.

 

In fact Sir John Fielding, one of His Majesty’s Justices of the Peace for the Counties of Middlesex, Essex, and Surry, and for the City and Liberty of Westminster, issued several warnings to the public, relating to the danger of the thefts of portmanteaus. This particular practice took advantage of the travellers arriving at the outskirts of London and changing means of transport, frequently met by friends. The thieves then took advantage of the inattention of the travellers, and if that has not been possible followed the coach waiting for an opportunity to cut the luggage off. Sir John Fielding also warned that travelling through London with luggage would become impossible at night, and that there was little hope of recovery of the stolen items.

 

 

                                                                                          Fig. 9 A caution issued by Sir John Fielding to the travellers arriving in London.,

 

 

 

Sir John refers to the thefts being nearly eradicated thanks to the transportation. “After execution, transportation was the most severe punishment dealt out in the Metropolis. It was also one of the most notable features of English penal practice during the century.” (Durston, 564) Transportation sentence was passed for petty theft, thus not punishable by death and replaced whipping or incarceration at Bridewell Prison. 

 

The punishment by transportation had been in existence since the seventeenth century, however it was 1718 with the introduction of The Transportation Act that saw a significant increase of transportation sentences. It is estimated that 36,000 convicts were transported between 1718 and 1776. Initially the convicts were transported to the Americas, however after the American Revolution breakout in 1775 it became impossible. In 1776, a law was passed that convicts could be transported to “any parts beyond the sea” (Durston, 570), meaning any British colonies. After a number of failed attempts to transport convicts to various parts of the world, including the West Coast of Africa with the task to guard British trade there and capture Dutch forts, Australia was selected and in May 1787 the first transport of 700 convicts left England.

 

However it does not appear to be sufficient deterrent as Sir John Fielding explains in a section devoted to "Portmanteaus Stealing" in the Extracts from the Penal Laws. A convicted felon stipulated that the only thing that would help stop the thefts would be to make the offence capital.

 

The Difficulty of prosecuting those Robbers who steal Portmanteaus, Trunks, Boxes etc. from behind Post-Chaises, Coaches, out of Wagons, Cars, etc, and the Lenity of their Punishment, being only Transportation encourages and increases this Gang. … A Principal of the Gang of Portmanteau Stealers being admitted as an Evidence, was asked by the Magistrate, what would be the best Method to cure this Evil? he replied that nothing would do it effectually, but making the Offence capital. (416)

 

                        

                     Fig. 10 and 11 Extracts from Penal Laws, Sir John Fielding                                                                             

 

In the same Extracts Sir John goes on to offer the following advise to the shopkeepers and tradesmen of London.

 

As persons coming to London in a Stage-Coach from a distance, are desirous of getting into a Hackney-Coach as soon as they can, they stop at the first Stand, which is generally near some Inn; here the Sharpers attend, and by their pretending to be Porters, or by other Stratagems, frequently rob the Passengers of their Box or Portmanteau; who being eager to see their Friends, throw aside their Caution, and trust too much to the care of the Coachman. These sort of Sharpers also attend the unloading of Road Waggons, where Quantities of Goods are put into a Cart to be dispersed about Town; this Cart they follow till they have an Opportunity of taking something out of it, while the Carter or Porter is making some Enquiry; a Man riding in these Carts would prevent these Robberies. Fastening Portmanteaus behind Post-Chaises with Chains instead of Straps will prevent them; and Stable-keepers not letting their Saddle-Horses to Strangers, unless they bring some Persons with them known to the Stable-Keeper will prevent many Highway Robberies. (262)

 

It would appear that the theft of a portmanteau was easy and lucrative. It was easy to take advantage of the distracted passengers arriving into the capital. In fact, there were 124 recorded cases involving portmanteaus in the Old Bailey Records between 1699 and 1801. These statistics only refer to the cases resulting in prosecution. As Sir John Fielding warned, the recovery of a stolen portmanteau was at best difficult, this fairly high number of cases involving portmanteaus could be indicative of how prolific the theft was. It also highlights the vulnerability of the eighteenth-century travellers. The improvements in the travel infrastructure and the development of travel were both a benefit to the contemporary society, but also brought with it the increase in crime and the threat to personal property, or even in extreme situations, life.

 

The eighteenth-century society experienced an interests in science.  That interest has also led to the publication of a large number of dictionaries, general as well as subject specific. There were general dictionaries, dictionaries of spelling, sports, et cetera.  Even the criminal world had a dictionary of it's own language published. The scoundrel's dictionary, or an explanation of the cant words used by the thieves, ... To which is prefixed, some curious dissertations on the art of wheedling; and a collection of their flash songs, ... The whole printed from a copy taken on one of their gang, ... 1754 lists the following terms relating to a portmanteau:

"A Portmanteau – A Peter

To steal a portmanteau – Bite the Roger"

This inclusion in the vocabulary of the criminal world indicates the portmanteau's theft value and significance. The convenience of having personal belongings available throughout the journey was tied to a high risk of having those belongings lost, or indeed stolen, with little hope for recovery.

 

A portmanteau could also potentially be involved in another crime - smuggling.  A 1736 debate in the House of Lords on the Bill to Prevent Smuggling refers to a portmanteau as a potential tool for a malicious servant to frame the master, as printed in the early version of the Hansard.

 

The Clause for making all Persons guilty of Felony, who to the Number of two or more, shall be found armed with any offensive Weapon, and travelling within five Miles from the Sea-coasts or any navigable River, with any Horse or Cart whereon shall be laden or put more than six Pounds of run Tea, or any other Goods above the value of 30 l Sterling, is a most dangerous Clause for the Subject; because it puts it in the Power of any malicious or knavish Servant, to make his Master if he travels with a Sword or Pistols , guilty of Felony whenever he has a mind, by putting seven Pounds of Tea, or thirty Guineas worth of Lace into his Master’s Portmanteau, and going, at the next Town they stop at to inform against him as a Smuggler; for which Piece of Malice or Knavery, this servant is, by subsequent Clause, to receive 50 l reward. Nay, I do not know but some Lord of this House may sometime hereafter be transported as a Smuggler; for seven Pounds of Tea , or thirty Guineas worth of Lace, may be packed up in very little Room, and if a malicious or knavish Servant, should put any such Parcel into his Lord's Coach Box, or Cloak-Bag, and swear that he put there by his Lordship's Order, with a Design to convey it to his House in Town, or his House in the Country, I do not see how the best Nobleman in the Kingdom could vindicate himself against such a clear Proof of Fact made Felony by the Bill.  (106)

 

This extract draws attention to the fact that the luggage of a nobleman was the responsibility of a trusted servant. This trust when placed in the wrong hands had the capacity to destroy reputation, and posed a potential threat to life. It further shows the vulnerability of the fate of the belongings in the eighteenth century; from the subject of theft to the object for smuggling. At the time when the value of the individual was beginning to be recognised, and when the individual privacy was becoming more precious, the most private possessions were under threat of mistreatment.

 

Newspapers, Advertising

“From early on in the century Londoners had the benefit of a daily press and by the 1750s there were four dailies and five tri-weekly newspaper, some of which had quite wide provincial circulation. In addition, the provincial towns had thirty-two papers in 1753, bringing the total circulation of the press (as calculated from the stamp duty returns of 1756) to about 29,500 newspapers a day.” (Hay, Rogers, 61-62)  “Advertising swelled enormously, especially in newspapers. Between 1747 and 1750 Bottley’s Bath Journal carried 2,740, between 1780 and 1783, well over twice as many.” (Porter, 190)

 

The growth in newspaper circulation and advertising helped to secure a conviction of one of the infamous Highwaymen of the time, James Maclean otherwise known as the Gentleman Highwayman.  MacLean stole a portmanteau from Mr Hidgen in the Salisbury coach near Turnham Green on 26^th June 1750. The contents of the stolen portmanteau was advertised, and in the process of an attempted sale, recognised, and Maclean was captured. The details of the crime were published in the Execution Pamphlet.

 

 

                                                                      

                                                    Fig.12 and 13 Execution of Maclean commonly known by the name of the Gentleman Highwayman.

 

The proliferation of newspapers and journals also enabled the public to advertise the loss of their property. It became possible to hope to recover the lost, or indeed stolen property. Rewards were offered for the safe return of the items. Portmanteaus were increasingly used to carry more items of clothing than just the very basics needed while travelling on horseback. The items were also of a significant value. One such notice lists the following items: "a coat, a waistcoat, a pair of breeches, 12 fine shirts marked JD and laced to the sleeves and bosom, 8 other shirts, several pairs of silk and thread stockings, sleeves, neck cloths and other things with a silver trimming bason and pot, a pocket book with several little baubles, and a Holland handkerchief marked as the shirts". The portmanteau in question, was either lost or stolen out of the car. The reward of 6 Guineas, £516.00 in today's terms was significant enough to have hopefully encouraged the return of the items. This amount would purchase 40 days of a skilled tradesman's work.

 

                                                                                                           Fig.14  11 November 1699 Burney Collection Newspapers, printed by Fr. Leach in Grey Fryers, Newgate Street

 

 

Another aspect of the growth in newspapers circulation is the growth of consumerism. It allowed the makers and purveyors to promote their trade to large numbers of potential customers, and, therefore, encourage  to purchase their goods.

 

A portmanteau became a commercial item available for purchase by anyone with sufficient means.  The commercial market opened to all with means to participate. The makers even advertised "Reasonable Rates" to entice less-to-do clientele into their workshops. The female potential as a customer was also recognised, and the manufactures targeted this new customer with "newly-invented" portmanteau specifically designed for ladies. These were listed alongside plain leather portmanteaus, presumably for the gentlemen. The portmanteau spread to all social spheres, the noble gentleman, the traveller, the servant, the beggar and the woman, as well commercial ones: the army and the postal service.

 

 

                                                                                                                 Fig. 15 Ladies portmanteaus advertisement

 

The advertising was not restricted to the availability of new goods, but included auctionsand estate sales (as mentioned above), as well as advertising of goods imported from Britain to America.  Robert G. Cranch, sadlers ironmonger and bridle-cutter advertised the goods imported from Britain to America with a portmanteau nearly at the top of the list of the list. It would imply that a portmanteau was a sought-after item for the modern eighteenth-century man or woman, both at home and abroad.

 

Fig. 16. Import advert

 

Satire and humour

Satire was another genre that became very popular in the eighteenth century. John Gay used the character of MacLean, the highwayman, in his satire The Beggar’s Opera. Every day items, and indeed contemporary household names, were being employed as a means of criticising a person or attitudes.

 

                                                                                                         Fig.17 The title page of The Scotch Portmanteau Opened at York

 

The Scotch Portmanteau Opened at York is a political satire written in 1761 in the form of letters relating to the influence of Lord Bute, a Scottish nobleman over Prince George, later George III. Lord Bute was the first Prime Minister from Scotland following the Acts of Union in 1707. He married the writer Lady Mary Wortley Montagu. In 1761 Mary was raised to the Peerage of Great Britain in her own right as Baroness Mount Stuart, of Wortley in the County of York. 

 

As well as carrying personal possessions, a portmanteau was also used to carry documents. The satire links Lord Bute’s Scottish origin, his wife’s York peerage, and his political position as the Secretary of State for the Northern Department. Linking the common-place item such as a portmanteau accessible to all spheres of the contemporary society with the importance of the political appointment further unveils the attitude of the author to Lord Bute's position. The Scotch Portmanteau symbolises Lord Bute and is satirised in the following paragraph.

 

On the Curates untying it, out tumbled on the Table a Night-Gown. – The Inside of Plaid, was very old, cracked in several Places, and appeared to have been worn about Half a Century. – the Outside was of an Orange-Colour Silk, quite new and in the Top of the Fashion. In a Pocket on the Plaid Side, was the Portrait of a handsome Youth in a Highland Dress, decorated with the Insignia of the great Order of England. In the Pocket of the Orange-Colour Side was the Portrait of his Majesty G.R. (149-150)

 

The nightgown could be read as an inference of a supposed affair between Lord Bute and George III’s mother. The plaid could refer to Lord Bute’s Scottishness, perhaps implied allegiance with the Jacobite rebellion. The fashionable Orange colour could be interpreted as satirising Lord Bute’s association with the new Royal Family, the successors of William III (of Orange), and therefore his changing loyalty in pursuit of power. This association was rewarded when the Prince ascended to the throne in 1760 and promoted Lord Bute to Privy Counsellor, Secretary of State for the Northern Department, as well as creating him a British peer. Soon after, Lord Bute became the Prime Minister. The title page line "Who can but laugh on viewing the Contents."  highlights the author's lack of respect for Lord Bute.

 

Portmanteaus also appeared in humorous anecdotes, including stereotyping of nationalities. Rules for drawing caricaturas: with an essay on comic painting includes the following paragraph:

 

"Besides the general subjects, there are others which, like the stage tricks, will always ensure the suffrages of the vulgar; among them are national jokes, as an Irishman on horseback, carrying a heavy portmanteau on his head, to ease his horse of its weight; a Welchman with his goat, leek, hay-boots, and long pedigree; a Scotchman with his scrubbing-post, and a meagre Frenchman in his laced jacket and bag, having long ruffles to his sleeves, without a shirt." (32)

 

Similarly, The Complete London Jester of 1763 includes a paragraph describing "A very fat Gentleman riding through a Town, some of the rude Sort of the Inhabitants fell a jeering him, and told him he carried his portmanteau before, when it should be behind. Oh says the Gentleman, I always carry it before me, but especially when I ride through a Town where there is nothing but Whores, Roques and Pickpockets." (102). The text seems to jest about the criminality of the towns and the lower classes.

 

The Times of 29th March 1786 includes an article criticising a University of Cambridge edict against private dinners The author suggests that the new rules "are said to have forced the scholars on whimsical stratagems to procure entertainment for their friends. As no victuals are permitted to be dressed for any such purpose within the college, every treat must of course be imported by stealth. It is therefore not uncommon to see a couple of roast ducks produced out of w wig-box, a boiled turkey and oyster sauce conveyed in a hamper, and a calf's head smuggled in a portmanteau. "

 

The inclusion in humour would further indicate how common-place and recognisable by all the item has become. For the anecdote to be funny, all its components must be familiar to the audience without the need for explanation. A portmanteau certainly seems to have become such an item employed in a political satire and as well as every-day humour.

 

Army

“Britain was at war for much of the long eighteenth century. In the 126 years between 1689 and 1815, Britain was under military arms for no less 65; in other words, roughly one year in every two.” (Hay, Rogers 152)

 

By the end of the eighteenth century a portmanteau is recommended as standard equipment for an army officer.  A Plain and Complete Equipage for an Officer in the Army, the Cheapest, the Most Commodius, and the Most Easy to be Carried upon Horses (1800?) prescribes the following:

 

The principal object, in the equipages of an officer, who has only one servant, is to furnish himself with, -his arms, his dress, his food, the utensils for a plain kitchen, his lodgings or tent, some plain and light furniture, and the means to be varied easily, with all these things.

 

THREE HORSES WILL BE SUFFICIENT UPON THE FOLLOWING PLAN,

 

1. The first horse for the officer, with his arms, and his manteaux or great coat tied before or behind his saddle.
2. The second horse for his servant; with two baskets, instead of cantines, which are to contain the provisions, the kitchen utensils; and a small portmanteau, containing an apparatus, and the change of linen and clothes, &c these articles will be detailed hereafter.
3. The third horse to carry the tent, the camp bed and furniture, &c. which horse is to be conducted in hand by the servant, and should be a strong one, as he must carry, besides the tent, one or two small deal folding tables, with their feet, three folding stools, a bear-skin, and if possible, a second portmanteau containing some books, maps, paper, &c.

 

The Baskets (CANTINES)

The saddle of the servant’s horse should be proper to carry the two baskets by his sides, and the small portmanteau behind. …

The Small Portmanteau of Leather.

This portmanteau will also be upon the second horse, behind the servant, and will contain in the middle, and APPARATUS of one foot in length and six inches in diameter. (see hereafter.)

On both sides of the apparatus, in the portmanteau, will be six shirts, stockings, &c. and, over the whole, one habit complete: in the top, or cover of the portmanteau, a pair of boots and shoes, with brushes, boot-jack, blacking ball, &c.”

 

An officer would only have one servant and all his necessities would have to be carried on 3 horses. 2 portmanteaus were recommended. One carried by the servant's horse should contain all the necessary clothes and associated paraphernalia, the other, transported by the pack horse, could contain less essential items such as books, maps, papers etc. This limitation of the officers belongings to 3 horses would significantly aid the army's ability to move without the need for carts and carriages to transport the belongings. The two-page pamphlet states that 'There is no government that would not wish to simplify the equipages of their armies.' The need to limit the number of the cumbersome army wagons was recognised in order for the army to move quickly. The portability and versatility of a portmanteau offered a perfect solution.

 

Conclusion

The portmanteau found its way into all aspects of eighteenth-century life; from the gentleman on horseback, to the servant and poor; tourist to soldier, politics to satire. domestic and commercial.  Travelling became more widespread and convenient, post was delivered faster, the officers equipage contained more efficiently. An insignificant item in itself, but its increased use has played its part in shaping a modern society. The convenience came at a price though, it was an easy and lucrative target for thefts from distracted passengers, but it also brought about the demise of the most infamous of the contemporary Highwaymen.

 

Sources:

Primary sources:

Boswell, James. The journal of a tour to the Hebrides, with Samuel Johnson, LL.D. By James Boswell, ...(1740)  printed by Henry Baldwin, for Charles Dilly. 1785, London

     An example of a travel narrative with mentions of a portmanteau, also related to a module text.

 

Browne, Richard. The English expositor improv'd: being a complete dictionary, teaching the interpretation of the most difficult words, which are commonly made use of in our English tongue. First set forth by J. B. Doctor of Physick. And now carefully revised, corrected, and abundantly augmented; ... By R. Browne, author of the English school reform'd. ... . (17th/18th cent) printed by Pressick Rider, and Thomas Harbin, and sold 1726 , Dublin

     An example of a dictionary listing the word with its early description. Helped with establishing the development of the item throughout the century.

 

Faujas-de-St.-Fond, cit. (Barthélemy). (1741). Travels in England, Scotland, and the Hebrides; undertaken for the purpose of examining the state of the arts, the sciences, ... (Volume 2). James Ridgway, 1799

     An example of a travel narrative identifying the portability and convenience of a portmanteau when travelling.

 

Fielding Sir, John.  Extracts from such of the Penal Laws, as particularly relate to the Peace and Good Order of this Metropolis ... A Millar, 1762. London

     A document identifying the vulnerability of the contemporary traveller and their luggage.

 

Grose, Francis. Rules for drawing caricaturas: with an essay on comic painting. By Francis Grose, ... Illustrated with twenty-one copper plates, seventeen of which etched by himself. S. Hooper, 1791. London

     A piece of instructional writing which included a brief paragraph on national stereotypes, involving the item. This added to the understanding of how common-place the item has become.

 

Jones, Stephen. Genuine edition. Sheridan improved. A general pronouncing and explanatory dictionary of the English language: for the use of schools, foreigners learning English, &c. ... The second edition, revised, ... by Stephen Jones, ...  (1763) printed for Vernor and Hood; J. Cuthell; Ogilvy and Son; and Lackington, Allen, and Co. 1797, London      

     An example of a dictionary listing the word with its later description. Helped with establishing the development of the item throughout the century.

 

Nugent, Thomas. The Grand tour; or, a journey through the Netherlands, Germany, Italy, and France. Containing, I. A description of the principal cities and towns, ... (Volume 3)

 

printed for J. Rivington and Sons, B. Law, T. Caslon, G. Robinson, T. Cadell, and 5 others in London, 1778

     An example of a travel narrative offering instructions on travel through Europe, including how to travel with a portmanteau.

 

Sterne, Laurence Sentimental journey through France and Italy, with twelve illustrative prints, designed and etched by Richard Newton. William Holland, 1795/1797. London 

     An example of a travel narrative. Rather than offering practical advice, the narrative offered a subjective account of the journey through Europe. A portmanteau was used as a device to aid the story-telling.

 

Savigny, J. A Plain and Complete Equipage for an Officer in the Army, the Cheapest, the Most Commodius, and the Most Easy to be Carried upon Horses (1800?)

     A leaflet prescribing the appropriate equipage for an army officer that can be easily transported.

 

"Advertisements and Notices." Gazetteer and New Daily Advertiser, 25 Oct. 1765. 17th and 18th Century Burney Collection, http://tinyurl.galegroup.com/tinyurl/5iqLA5. Accessed 2 Jan. 2018

     A newspaper article highlighting the vulnerability of a traveller arriving in London. Also drawing attention to the proliferation of portmanteau thefts.

 

The History and Proceedings of the House of Lords from the Restoration in 1660 to the Present Time, Volume the Fifth from 1735 to 1793, Ebenezer Timberland. London

     An anecdotal mention of a portmanteau in the House of Lords debate on smuggling as potential means for a vengeful servant to implicate a master. Again, provides an insight into the wide use of a portmanteau.

 

The scoundrel's dictionary, or an explanation of the cant words used by the thieves, ... To which is prefixed, some curious dissertations on the art of wheedling; and a collection of their flash songs, ... The whole printed from a copy taken on one of their gang, ... 1754

     A dictionary of the criminal world slang. The inclusion in the slang identifies the theft value of a portmanteau.  

 

The Sportsman Dictionary or, The Gentleman's Companion for Town and Country, 1792 

     It includes a term for a specific saddle to carry a portmanteau. Helps to understand how the item would have been carried.

 

Unattributed. The traveller's companion and guide through France, Flanders, Brabant, and Holland. In which is a description of the courts of France and ... R. Richards, 1753.  London 

     A travel narrative offering practical advice on dealing with one's luggage when arriving in a new country.

 

Unattributed. The Scotch Portmanteau Opened at York. M. Thrush, 1761. London

     A political satire. A portmanteau used to symbolise a political person.

 

The complete London jester, or wit's companion; containing all the fun and all the humour, ... which has lately flowed from the two universities, ...

   Anecdotal mention, highlighting the  vulnerability of travelling with luggage, as well as the growth of the criminality during the century.

 

"The late edicts in the University of Cambridge against private dinners, are said to have forced the...", Times 29th March 1786 p.3. The Times Digital Archives 

  An anecdotal mention on the use of a portmanteau to subvert regulations.  

 

Secondary Sources:

Durston, Gregory .J Whores and Highwaymen; Crime and Justice in the Eighteenth-Century Metropolis. Waterside Press, 2012 Hook,

     It offers an insight into the criminality and justice of the eighteenth-century English city, particularly on theft and transportation.

 

Hay, Douglas and Rogers, Nicholas. Eighteenth-Century English Society. Oxford University Press, 1997

     Background information on the 18th Century English society with respect to travel

 

Pawson, Eric. Transport and Economy: The Turnpike Roads of Eighteenth Century Britain.  Academic Press Ltd, , 1977. London

     An insight into the development of the transport system, and the increase in private and commercial travel.

 

Porter, Roy. English Society in the 18^th Century. Penguin Books 1991

     Background information on the 18th Century English society with respect to travel

 

Richardson, Samuel. Pamela. Oxford University Press, 2008 

     Module text, Pamela describes her belongings in a portmanteau which could imply she owned one  

 

gov.uk/blog. History of Government, John Stuart 3rd Earl of Bute. https://history.blog.gov.uk/2015/01/28/john-stuart-3rd-earl-of-bute-whig-1762-1763/

     Provided background information on Lord Bute

 

 The National Archives website http://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/currency-converter/#currency-result

     Provided information on monetary value of eighteenth-century items in today's terms.

 

Images 

Fig.1 A Leather Portmanteau, The 18th Century Material Culture Resource Centre. "Trunks and Portmanteaus", SCRIBD, https://www.scribd.com/document/253552387/Trunks-Portmanteaus 

Fig.2 Graph representing the frequency of the word “portmanteau” in printed texts,  www.historicaltexts.jisc.ac.uk

Fig.3 Graph representing the frequency in printed texts of the 4 main forms of the word portmanteau.  Gale Primary sources http://0-gdc.galegroup.com.pugwash.lib.warwick.ac.uk/gdc/artemis/nGramViewer?p=GDCS&u=warwick#/1695/1805/DVI-Newspapers_ct/off//portmanteau/portmantua/portmantle/port-manteau

Fig 4. A Dinner Conversation by Marcellus Laroon the Younger c 1735-1740, Image from Wikipedia Commons

Fig. 5 School Boys Giving Charity to a Blind Man, William Redmore Bigg 1784 The British Museum Collection Online http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=1613913&partId=1&people=132202&peoA=132202-2-70&page=1

Fig. 6 and 7 An Auction Catalogue

Fig. 8 The title page of Sterne's A Sentimental Journey

Fig. 9 A caution issued by Sir John Fielding to the travellers arriving in London., "Advertisement and Notices" Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser, 25th October 1765, 17th and 18th Century Burney Collection. http://tinyurl.galegroup.com/tinyurl/5iqLA5. Accessed 2 Jan. 2018.

Fig. 10 and 11 Extracts from Penal Laws, Sir John Fielding               

Fig.12 and 13 Execution of Maclean commonly known by the name of the Gentleman Highwayman.                                                          

Fig.14  11 November 1699 Burney Collection Newspapers, printed by Fr. Leach in Grey Fryers, Newgate Street

Fig. 15 Ladies portmanteaus advertisement,  http://antiquecampaignfurniture.blogspot.co.uk/2015/07/gregory-kane-campaign-furniture-maker.html

Fig. 16. Import advert, Thomas, Isaiah. Robert G. Cranch, sadlers ironmonger and bridle-cutter, on the Exchange, Boston, has imported in the last ship from Bristol, bought of the ... .  I. Thomas, near the Mill-Bridge, Boston. 1774

Fig.17 The title page of The Scotch Portmanteau Opened at York