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Montagu's "The Reasons that Induced Dr. S - to write a Poem called the Lady's Dressing Room"
Richardson's "Pamela"
Cleland's "Memoirs of a Woman of Pleasure"
Sterne's "Tristram Shandy"
"One, Two Buckle my Shoe" - Henry Bolton, collector of counting rhymes in 1885 said the rhyme was used in Wrentham, Massachusetts as early as 1780
Criminality
Due to the fact that the shoe buckle was an every day item there was understandably much criminality surrounding them as they were an easy item to access and to sell.
The value of the buckles taken ranged dramatically, reflecting the variety of buckles on the market depending on what a consumer could afford. Old Bailey record show buckles stolen with a value as low as 1d (equivalent to 27p in modern monetary values).
In contrast there are thefts of shoe buckles that yield to a value as high as 2d (£149.58) for a single pair. The contrast in punishment was high, corresponding with the value of the robbery. Whilst both these thefts were in conjunction with other items, and therefore do not reflect what the theft of a single buckle might have resulted in, there is still a contrast of value for the thefts which reflects the value of the shoe buckles. Whilst Catherine Simpson was fined 10d (£3.58) John Andrew Martin received the death penalty for such a considerable robbery.
It is worth noting that whilst the shoe buckles stolen by Catherine Simpson were the the item of lowest value which she took, the most valuable shoe Buckles Martin took were of a comparatively much higher value in his collection of goods.
Popularity began to decline in the late 1780s and the early 1790s. An appeal was made to Prince George, the Prince of Wales by shoe buckle manufacturers in an attempt to maintain the popularity of the shoe buckle. (document) Holland and Hunt (Hutton) documented the events. (Treatise on the Progressive Improvement and Present State of the Manufactures in Metal 1834)
Hogarth's "The Rake's Progress" and "The Marriage Contract" (The Countess's Levee)
Hogarth's works, reflecting "modern, moral subjects", illustrate how the shoe buckle may be used in satirical works. "A Harlot's Progress" - the illustration of a young girl whose innocence leads to her into the world of prostitution, and ultimately her untimely death, illustrated through the subtle and symbolic in his prints uses shoe buckles consistently throughout.
Expensive buckles were made in silver but the less expensive ones were made of shiny steel cut to resemble diamonds.
clothing as identity
Throughout the late eighteenth century paste stones became popular decorations for shoe buckles as they were not only cheap, but also easy for the designers to cut them to produce their maximum potential without fear of damaging a valuable stone.
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